We came to Biarritz in the summer of 2024, a brief escape from the Olympic madness in Paris. While the world was caught up in athletic heroics, we traded crowds for coastline (though not really), swapping the Seine for the sea. But, as it turned out, I wasn’t entirely escaping the sports scene, more on that later.

Biarritz is so much more than just a beautiful ocean retreat. It merges imperial elegance with a relaxed surf culture, where locals parade in their wetsuits alongside grand old facades.

Getting there

Biarritz is well-connected, either by land or by air. We took the train from Paris, which takes around four and a half hours and includes a stop in Bordeaux.

A standard one-way TGV (bullet train) ticket from Paris to Biarritz costs anywhere from €50 to €120, depending on how early you book. If you're flexible with your dates and book in advance, you can often get a good deal.

For those coming from Spain, driving is a popular choice, and we saw plenty of Spanish license plates, a reminder that San Sebastián is just an hour away.

Getting around

Biarritz is best explored on foot, which is fortunate because we did a lot of walking. The city center is compact, the kind of place where you can accidentally stumble upon a local market or an ocean viewpoint without even trying. It’s quite charming, full of winding streets, boutique shops, and plenty of spots to pause for a coffee or a bite to eat.

For longer distances or when our legs started protesting, the Txik Txak bus network was a reliable backup. A single bus ticket costs €1,30, but we got the 10-ride pass for €9,90, making it an affordable way to get around. You can buy tickets directly from the ticket booths at the stops or the driver. Having small change helps when you pay with the driver. Otherwise, you can pay with your card at the ticket machines or booths.

Bikes and scooters are available for rent at the city center too, but Biarritz isn’t exactly forgiving for casual riders. Buses are frequent and reliable for when your legs need a break, though we did see people attempting the city’s steep inclines on bikes and scooters. Brave souls. It’s doable, but unless you relish an uphill challenge, walking or taking the bus is the way to go.

Basque, surf, and aristocrats

Biarritz is more than just a surf town, it has history. Once a humble fishing village, it became a royal retreat in the 19th century when Empress Eugénie (wife of Napoleon III) fell in love with it. She built a summer palace, now the Hôtel du Palais, and suddenly, Biarritz was on the map. The European elite followed, turning it into a glamorous seaside destination. That aristocratic flair never really left, but today it mingles with a more laid-back surf culture, creating a city that feels both elegant and relaxed.

There it was, *Printze txikia!* The latest addition to my growing collection.

For a bit of a history fix, we made a quick stop at the Musée Historique de Biarritz, a small but interesting look at the town’s transformation over the years.

One of the reasons I suggested Biarritz for this trip was to experience the Basque people, their culture, and, most intriguingly, their language: Euskara. Unlike French or Spanish, Euskara has no known linguistic relatives. It predates the Romance languages, existing long before modern France or Spain took shape. Somehow, despite conquests, repression, and globalization, it has survived.

You see evidence of Basque pride everywhere: red, green, and white ikurriña flags, street signs in both French and Euskara, and the occasional Ongi etorri ("Welcome") painted on shop windows. Even the bookstores carry their weight in this linguistic preservation. I was on a mission to find Le Petit Prince in Basque (Printze txikia). The first bookstore I visited didn’t have it, but the second, Bookstore Biarritz, came through. There it was, Printze txikia! The latest addition to my growing collection. Nothing beats the satisfaction of tracking down a book in person. While in the bookstore, I also grabbed a pamphlet on the Basque language to inform myself further.

While most people in Biarritz speak French, throwing in a few Basque words goes a long way. Here are some useful ones:

Kaixo! – Hello!
Eskerrik asko! – Thank you!
Bai / Ez – Yes / No
Zenbat da? – How much is it?
Agur! – Goodbye!

A quiet afternoon at the Airbnb, feet up while rocking on the hammock under a palm tree and the August sun, book in hand, with the sound of the ocean in the background.

Where we stayed

From our Airbnb near Plage Miramar, the sea was never far away. That deep, Atlantic blue stretching toward the horizon, occasionally interrupted by surfers carving through the waves. And those waves - formidable, powerful, and perfect for those with a board. Less so for those hoping for a leisurely swim like myself and B. Case in point: at Plage Milady, B got hit by someone who had been dragged by a rogue wave. The lifeguards were quick to act. And I recuperated B from there.

Cue a mad dash to the pharmacy before closing time at 7 PM (because if there’s one thing you learn quickly in France, it’s that timing is everything). I managed to grab some anti-inflammatory cream just in time and put on a cold compress in the hopes that the injury was under control - at least before we headed back to Paris.

Pépite Cookie was our gelato stop in the city center.

What to eat

Biarritz has no shortage of fantastic places to eat, but we balanced dining out with home-cooked meals, picking up groceries from Carrefour City which was inconveniently a 20-minute uphill trek from our Airbnb. (Which, after a long day of walking, felt like an Olympic event in itself, wink.)

When we did eat out, we made it count. Lunch at Le Café du Commerce was a lively affair, a classic brasserie with the kind of warm, effortless service in the heart of the city center. Drinks at Restaurant Biarritz Beach came with a front-row seat to the Atlantic. Since they only served drinks, we followed it up with crêpes at Crêperie Le Blé Noir, a cozy spot along the coast where the galettes were crisp and the cider was just dry enough.

For something sweet, Pépite Cookie was our gelato stop in the city center. A small but excellent find.

What to do

At one point, B decided to go on a hike nearby, taking advantage of Biarritz’s access to some fantastic coastal trails. I, however, opted for something just as rewarding: staying put (I know, the irony). A quiet afternoon at the Airbnb, feet up while rocking on the hammock under a palm tree and the August sun, book in hand, with the sound of the ocean in the background. No regrets.

If not dining, surfing, bathing, or strolling around the historical streets of Biarritz, with more time, we would’ve ventured beyond Biarritz to explore more of the Basque region. Saint-Jean-de-Luz, with its picturesque harbor and famous pastries, was calling. Bayonne, a city rich in Basque culture (and the birthplace of Bayonne ham), was another strong contender. And then, of course, there was San Sebastián just across the Spanish border, known for its world-class pintxos and stunning beaches. Next time.

What to bring home

If you’re looking at bringing something back from the Basque coast, it’s a little piece of its bold flavors and traditions.

Piment d’Espelette – This mildly spicy, slightly smoky red pepper is the pride of the region. Used in everything from sauces to chocolate, it’s a perfect culinary souvenir. Look for it in small glass jars or decorative cloth bags at local markets.
Basque Linens – Traditional Basque textiles, with their signature stripes and sturdy cotton weave, make great kitchen towels or tablecloths. They’re both practical and beautifully designed, a subtle nod to the region’s heritage.
Gâteau Basque – A rich pastry filled with either black cherry jam or almond cream. While fresh is always best, you can find beautifully packaged versions that travel well, ideal for extending the taste of Biarritz just a little longer.

And, of course, when all else fails, postcards never disappoint - a simple, timeless way to capture a place in ink and paper.

Our time in Biarritz was short, and before we knew it, we were heading back to Paris, just in time for B’s Marathon pour Tous 10K run. Was he able to make it despite his injury? Story for another day.

Biarritz is so much more than just a beautiful ocean retreat; it is an accommodation of contrasts. It merges imperial elegance with a relaxed surf culture, where locals parade in their wetsuits alongside grand old facades. Quite French and proudly Basque.

It is a city that is not trying too hard but somehow manages to evade all conventions. A place where time feels suspended, from imposing hotels to shadowy alleys and bookstores, where even a short trip feels like a brief brush with something greater than the ordinary: something both familiar and strangely new.

And whether you come for the sea, for the food, or the culture, Biarritz offers no conditions. It simply welcomes you in and lets you go on its quest.

Biarritz, France