Unraveling Berlin's Past — Leni on the Road

The second day of my six-day sojourn in Berlin has been quite an insightful Sunday experience. I started my day with back-to-back video call meetings with my contacts from the Philippines, for a discussion of the future and also to look back on the past. After the meetings, we quickly had lunch at the apartment before heading out to catch the metro from Wedding Station to Rotes Rathaus.

The highlight of the day was the 3-hour Berlin Socialism & Communism Free Walking Tour by Walkative, led by our enthusiastic and knowledgeable guide, Will. As a native English speaker and historian, Will was able to explain everything in great detail, making the tour even more informative and engaging. Our journey started at the Marx-Engels Forum, where Will discussed the contributions of Marx and Engels to German society.

It was here that I learned something new: socialism and communism were used interchangeably in the 19th century until the early days of the 20th century. Their distinctions are not as we know them to be today. We then walked down the street to the Liebknecht balcony, now a European business school. Will discussed how the then intertwined definition of a communist/socialist society envisioned by Marx, his wife Jenny, and Engels has evolved into two distinct ideologies of the communist and socialist parties years after they died. Briefly, the distinction that arose between the two ideologies in the early decades of the 20th century is: communism is to revolution while socialism is to reform. He also talked about how these parties interacted with the Reich and the Nazis, leading up to the atrocities of the first and second world wars, the cold war, and ultimately the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989. I would’ve liked to note them in great detail here. However, I don’t want to spoil Will’s spiel to whoever stumbles upon this short write-up, and also, there have been so many details I’m not sure I quite comprehend enough to be able to explain them accurately. If there’s anything I can remember is that the fall of the German empire and the rise of communism took place in this area.

We then took the metro to Frankfurter Tor to catch a glimpse of the most impressive Stalinist architecture in Germany along Karl Marx Allee. Here, Will further discussed the complex development of socialist ideas in East Germany alongside that of Capitalist West Germany. Before taking the tram, Will pointed out two things: one of the many installations of CMYK Dots street/wall art all over Berlin and Humana - one of the largest thrift stores in Europe is found here. We finished the tour at The Berlin Wall (East Side Gallery), the longest existing part of the notorious border between East and West. It was an emotional experience to stand at the terminal of tram M10 and see the remnants of a time that divided a nation.

As we ended the tour, I realized that I'm only starting to grasp the philosophy and politics behind German history. Until today, I only had a brief and the most basic understanding of its complex history, and I don't know if I will ever fully comprehend how and why it operates as it is now, but here’s a start. Nevertheless, I'm grateful that B chose this tour because I wouldn't have otherwise actively engaged in this kind of tour. It was a great way to learn about Berlin's rich and complicated history.

If I can sum up the learning from today:

The history of socialism and communism is more complex than we might think. During the 19th century and early 20th centuries, the terms were used interchangeably, and their distinctions are not as clear-cut as they are today. Understanding the evolution of these ideologies is crucial to understanding the history of Berlin and Germany as a whole.
The legacy of the Berlin Wall still resonates today. Standing at the terminal of tram M10 and seeing the remnants of the wall was a powerful experience. It's a stark reminder of the division that existed in the past and the importance of unity in the present and future.
Taking a guided tour can greatly enhance one's understanding of history and culture. Having a knowledgeable and enthusiastic guide like Will made a significant difference in how much I learned and enjoyed the tour. It's a great way to engage with a new place and gain a deeper appreciation of a place’s past and present.