Circuito Liberdade — Leni on the Road

Returning to the enthralling city of Belo Horizonte, I was determined to immerse myself in its cultural wonders. The previous visit in 2022 left me yearning to explore the city's museums. Our more adventurous travel plans around Minas Gerais then, visiting countless waterfalls and churches, hindered my plans to get to know the Mineiro capital city deeper. This time, with four full days in Belo Horizonte and being a little bit more familiar with the area, I set my sights on the renowned Circuito Liberdade, a district teeming with economic, artistic and historical treasures. After a full day at Inhotim, I was set to uncover the places that had eluded me before.

On Tuesday, I made time to get to know the collection at MM Gerdau – Museu das Minas e do Metal (free entrance). Known as the Pink Building (Prédio Rosa) at Praça da Liberdade, formerly housing the Ministry of the Interior and Education (Secretaria do Interior e da Educação) now houses the museum. It was inaugurated in 1897, coinciding with the establishment of Belo Horizonte. Recognized as a heritage site by the State Institute of Historical and Artistic Heritage (IEPHA), this magnificent structure has undergone meticulous restoration work, unveiling its interior adorned in the fashionable French-inspired style of the era, featuring elements of neoclassical and art nouveau design.

With each exhibit, I paid close attention to the intricate craftsmanship and the story of mining and metalworking. The museum's vast collection offered a deep understanding of Minas Gerais' industrial heritage, leaving me in awe of the region's rich history and its contribution to Brazil’s booming mining economy.

Unexpectedly, my exploration of the museum consumed the entire morning, and just as hunger tugged at my senses, V, having completed his shift in the lab, joined me for a satisfying meal at Kangaroo (free dessert), a self-service restaurant in the tranquil confines of Savassi—a place he frequented during his high school days.

After a satisfying meal, I now have company to visit another one of the museums in the circuit, Memorial Minas Gerais Vale. This space dedicated to the state's cultural heritage intrigued me, and now I had the opportunity to look into its immersive displays and narratives. Through each panel, I was transported through time, gaining insights into the traditions, art forms, and essence of Minas Gerais. Each installation painted a vivid picture of the region's cultural tapestry, fostering a deeper connection with the place and its people.

Continuing my solo exploration the following day, I came back to the circuit with Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil (CCBB) as my first stop. Each major city boasts its own CCBB, and my desire to visit the one in Rio de Janeiro had been thwarted in the past, with a lingering hope that the CCBB in BH would offer an equally captivating experience. To my delight, fate smiled upon me as the exhibit I had longed to see in Rio was now on display in CCBB BH since March 2023!

Os Gemeos, (the twins in English) are Brazilian street artists and a dynamic duo whose vibrant street artwork has left a lasting mark on the global street art scene. Born as identical twins in São Paulo, Gustavo and Otavio Pandolfo, collectively known as Os Gemeos, have become synonymous with their unique and distinctive artistic style.

Inspired by the cultural richness and urban landscape of their hometown, Os Gemeos have transformed city walls into living canvases, infusing neighborhoods with their imaginative creations. Their artistry blends elements of graffiti, muralism, and contemporary art, resulting in a visual language that is instantly recognizable and brimming with life.

One of the hallmarks of Os Gemeos' work is their whimsical and often surreal characters. Their creations are characterized by vibrant colors, intricate patterns, and intricate details that breathe life into their subjects. Whether it's their signature yellow-skinned figures, whimsical creatures, or surreal dreamscapes, their art transports viewers to a fantastical world where imagination reigns supreme.

Collaboration between Banksy and Os Gemeos

Beyond their mastery of aesthetics, Os Gemeos' artwork often carries profound social and cultural messages. Their pieces reflect the struggles, dreams, and cultural heritage of the communities they engage with. They use their art as a medium to address issues of inequality, identity, and urbanization, making powerful statements while simultaneously beautifying neglected spaces.

The global recognition of Os Gemeos has led to numerous collaborations with renowned artists, institutions, and brands. Their murals grace the walls of cities worldwide, from São Paulo to New York, from Tokyo to Berlin, leaving a lasting impression on anyone fortunate enough to witness their creations firsthand.

Os Gemeos' impact extends beyond the streets, as their artwork has been exhibited in prestigious galleries and museums around the world. Their ability to seamlessly bridge the gap between the street art and contemporary art worlds has earned them critical acclaim and a dedicated following of art enthusiasts.

Through their imaginative artwork, Os Gemeos have carved out a space for themselves in the annals of street art history. They have not only transformed the urban landscape but have also inspired a new generation of artists to embrace the power of public art as a means of cultural expression and social commentary. Their legacy as influential Brazilian street artists continue to grow, leaving an enduring imprint on the artistic landscape.

With a mere four minutes to spare before the opening of Palacio Liberdade, I seized the opportunity to visit the Biblioteca Estadual de Minas Gerais—a sanctuary of knowledge and literature. Although my visit was intended to be brief, I found myself perusing the shelves, inhaling the intellectual aura, and contemplating the profound impact literature has on shaping society. Engrossed in my thoughts and torn between taking a lunch break or continuing my museum visits, I received a call from V, who had just completed his lab shift for the day. He requested that I wait for him before continuing my exploration. Taking advantage of the wait, I immersed myself in simplified versions of the works of Machado de Assis, opting to remain in the children's section to align with my current level of Portuguese comprehension (A2~B1). It was within this haven that I gained access to Brazilian classic tales presented in a comprehensive manner.

An hour later, V and I together stood in awe of the grandeur of Palacio Liberdade, a testament to Belo Horizonte's historical significance. Although I couldn't dedicate as much time as I would have liked because I was starving, I soaked all its architectural splendor and imagined the stories woven within its walls, appreciating the historical importance it held for the city.

Approaching the palace's imposing facade, a sense of awe washed over me. Its opulent neoclassical design, adorned with intricate details and graceful symmetry, evoked a bygone era of elegance and sophistication. The creamy limestone exterior radiated in the 1 pm sunlight, casting a golden glow that seemed to breathe life into the surrounding landscape.

Stepping through the grand entrance, I found myself transported to a world of refined splendor and refined craftsmanship. The interior of the palace unfolded before me, each room a chapter in the city's rich narrative. Elaborate chandeliers suspended from lofty ceilings illuminated the exquisite period furnishings, creating an ambiance of timeless beauty.

As I wandered through the halls, I marveled at the intricate frescoes adorning the walls, depicting scenes of myth and legend. The skillful brushstrokes and vibrant colors breathed life into the artwork, captivating my imagination and whisking me away to distant dimensions. The carefully curated collection of antiques and artifacts told stories of bygone eras, offering a glimpse into the lives and aspirations of those who once inhabited these hallowed halls.

Ascending the sweeping staircase, I reached the upper levels, where the private chambers awaited. These sanctuaries of luxury and refinement bore witness to the lives of dignitaries and rulers who once graced this palace with their presence. The ornate detailing, from gilded trimmings to intricate woodwork, whispered tales of power, intrigue, and noble endeavors.

From the balconies, I gazed out upon the city below, the panoramic view is a witness to the enduring spirit of Belo Horizonte. The sprawling urban landscape stretched as far as the eye could see, modernity interwoven with echoes of the past. The contrast of old and new, tradition and progress, created a captivating harmony that mirrored the city's own vibrant character.

Before heading out of the Palacio de Liberdade, we decided to indulge in a leisurely stroll through its captivating garden. The palace's regal charm extended beyond its magnificent halls, spilling out into a meticulously manicured outdoor oasis.

A symphony of colors greeted us in the garden, with vibrant blooms dancing in the gentle breeze. The air was infused with the intoxicating fragrance of flowers in full bloom, enveloping us in a sensory embrace. Paths adorned with ornate ironwork meandered through the verdant landscape, inviting us to explore its hidden corners.

We walked along the winding pathways, pausing to admire the meticulously sculpted topiaries that adorned the garden. These living works of art showcased the skill and dedication of the gardeners who lovingly shaped them into shapes and intricate designs. The hues of the flowers provided a delightful contrast against the rich greenery, creating a visual feast for the eyes.

As we strolled further, we discovered a charming gazebo nestled amidst the foliage, offering tranquil retreats to sit and soak in the serene ambiance. The gazebo seemed to tell a story, its architectural details echoing the palace's neoclassical opulence. We found solace within their sheltering embrace, enjoying moments of respite as we absorbed the beauty that surrounded us.

The garden also revealed hidden treasures in the form of bubbling fountains and serene ponds. The soft murmur of water and the graceful movements of koi fish added a touch of tranquility to the already enchanting atmosphere. We lingered by the water's edge, entranced by the interplay of light and shadow, finding solace in the gentle symphony of nature's elements.

Time seemed to stand still as we explored the nooks and crannies of this verdant sanctuary. The garden's peaceful embrace provided the perfect conclusion to our journey through the Palacio de Liberdade, allowing us to reflect on the grandeur we had witnessed inside the palace's hallowed halls.

Reluctantly, we tore ourselves away from the garden's embrace for a sought-after meal I have longed to have three hours ago. At the nearby neighborhood of Savassi, my safe space, I indulged in pão de queijo, pastel and a generous dose of açai topped with paçoca, banana and strawberries.

As the golden sun descended towards the horizon, casting its warm hues across the vast expanse, we found ourselves at Mirante de Mangabeiras, enthralled by a truly moving sunset. One I will remember for a lifetime. Perched high above Belo Horizonte, this panoramic viewpoint enveloped me in its awe-inspiring beauty. The sky transformed into a masterpiece, adorned with strokes of crimson, orange, and purple, as the sun gracefully bid its farewell to another day. The silhouette of the city's skyline stood in striking contrast against the vibrant backdrop, a reflection of the vibrant urban energy pulsating below.

Dusk gently settled. We made our way down to Praça do Papa, a place of reflection and contemplation. From this elevated vantage point, the cityscape unfolded before my eyes, adorned with a mosaic of twinkling lights. The illuminated buildings and structures gracefully intertwined, creating a scene that filled me with a serene sense of awe. I sat there, amidst the chilly autumnal night, immersed in the enchanting beauty, feeling a profound connection to the pulsating rhythm of Belo Horizonte.

Still with a lingering sense of awe from two days’ worth of exploration, V giddily drives me towards Rue Amendoim, a seemingly ordinary street yet filled with mystery. V turned off his car engine and placed his gear in neutral. With bated breath, we awaited the moment of truth. And then, as if defying the laws of gravity, the car began to ascend the incline effortlessly. Astonishment and wonder swept over us as we witnessed this perplexing phenomenon firsthand. Was it an elaborate trick of the mind or a genuine marvel of physics? It is still being debated to this day, whether it was an optical illusion or a well-kept secret of nature.

Exploring the museums and cultural sites of Belo Horizonte bestowed upon me a deeper understanding of this metropolis, its two million inhabitants, and its pulsating artistic essence. The immersive exhibits and the evocative narratives embedded in art forged an intimate bond between me and the locale, instilling in me a profound appreciation for the transformative power of imagination and cultural expression. Belo Horizonte, once more, left an enduring imprint on my being, and as my second visit draws to an end, I am comforted with a fulfilling sense of purpose, carrying the city's cultural marvels as cherished treasures to be shared for years ahead.