Inhotim, where nature and art harmoniously coexist

Today, we're taking a deep dive into the mesmerizing world of art at Inhotim, an extraordinary open-air museum nestled in the lush landscapes of Brumadinho, just a short drive from the bustling capital of Minas Gerais, Brazil.

Inhotim isn't your typical museum. It's an artistic wonderland sprawled across an expansive area of over 5,000 acres, being one of Latin America's most expansive outdoor art centers. Imagine strolling through tropical gardens, meandering around serene lakes, and stumbling upon stunning contemporary artworks along the way. It's a feast for the senses!

Magic Square #5 (1977) was built posthumously, following the instructions left by Hélio Oiticic

How to get there

Inhotim is about a 60-kilometre (37-mile) drive to Brumadinho from Belo Horizonte. I recommend renting a car (I previously rented a car from Localiza) or hiring a local driver to ensure a smooth journey. As for my experience, I had my friend V drive me around Minas Gerais while I was there using his own car.

As we set off from Belo Horizonte, excitement and anticipation filled the air. However, our trusty navigator, Waze, had a surprise in store for us. In a rather unexpected twist, it led us on a route that took us through a labyrinthine mine, leaving us unsure and scratching our heads. Yet, sometimes the most memorable adventures unfold when we step out of our comfort zones and embrace the unexpected. In retrospect, it became part of our unique story—a tale to be shared and laughed about as we recall the twists and turns that led us to the artistic wonders of Inhotim.

Arriving at Inhotim

Once you arrive, prepare to be blown away by the sheer scale of Inhotim. With over 20 galleries and pavilions, plus an extensive outdoor exhibition space, you'll want to plan your visit wisely. The museum opens at 9:30 am, so try to get there early to make the most of your day. We arrived at 11 am and I already felt we couldn’t possibly go through everything the entire day, so I already made peace with that thought.

Within the Magic Squares of Hélio Oiticica

Entrance Tickets

Tickets are required for entry. The good news is that the ticket prices are well worth the experience that awaits you. Inhotim offers different ticket options to cater to various preferences. Prices may vary, but typically they range from a more affordable weekday pass to slightly higher rates for weekends and holidays. Additionally, they often provide discounted tickets for students, seniors, and children. Check Inhotim's official website to get the most up-to-date pricing information and any possible package deals.

In May 2023, we paid R$ 50,00 for a day pass, and R$ 35 for the internal transport system.

Before you set off, grab a map and schedule at the entrance. In the interest of saving time and energy, we opted to pay for the golf cart services that could take us faster to the next exhibit which could take a while to reach by foot. Inhotim is like a maze of artistic marvels, and having a plan will help you navigate the vast grounds efficiently. We didn’t have a definite plan and just wandered around planning our next stop on the spot. Even having the option to ride the golf cart, most of the visit can only be done on foot so don't forget to wear comfortable shoes. You'll be doing plenty of walking!

An immersive experience through the Pink Route

There are three color-coded routes to follow in Inhotim: the pink, the yellow or the vast orange route. Armed (literally) with our ticket bands, we decided to first follow the seemingly shorter yet enchanting Pink Route, a captivating journey through some of the most vibrant and thought-provoking artworks this open-air museum has to offer.

The Pink Route is a carefully curated path that takes you on a colorful exploration of contemporary art. It's like stepping into a kaleidoscope of creativity, where every turn reveals a new and captivating experience. I can’t go through every gallery and exhibit here in detail but here are some of the highlights.

First is a true gem along the Pink Route: the Galeria Hélio Oiticica. Prepare to be immersed in a world of sensory experiences, where art transcends boundaries and invites active participation. Oiticica's innovative installations encourage us to engage with our surroundings, to touch, to move, and to become an integral part of the artwork itself. It's an invitation to unleash our inner creativity and embrace the joy of exploration.

Edgard de Souza - bronze sculptures of connected headless midsections

Galeria Doris Salcedo - a historical reference the architecture of concentration camps

Nestled in the open air, exposed to natural elements stands as an exquisite testament to the brilliance of Brazilian sculptor Edgard de Souza. The bronze sculptures of connected headless midsections of Edgard de Souza are a veritable masterpiece, seamlessly merging with the surrounding natural splendor, and offering a profound and transformative artistic encounter.

Within the Gallery of Doris Salcedo, is a remarkable, eerie space that serves as a poignant intervention, engaging in dialogue with its surroundings, drawing historical references from the architecture of concentration camps. As we enter this captivating realm, our gaze is drawn to a substantial white room devoid of windows, presenting an outwardly neutral façade. However, the walls bear witness to a profound tension, pierced through by intricate grating, revealing the complex interplay between interior and exterior, safety and confinement.

Designed by Arquitetos Associados, the Galeria Miguel Rio Branco was inaugurated in 2010

Capoeira is an Afro-Brazilian martial art that combines elements of dance, acrobatics, music and spirituality

Further into the pink route is Galeria Miguel Rio Branco. Prepare to be enveloped in a world of vibrant colors, expressive photography, and evocative storytelling. Miguel Rio Branco's art beckons us to explore the beauty found in the mundane and to seek poetry in the everyday moments that often go unnoticed. It's a powerful reminder that art has the remarkable ability to unveil hidden narratives and unveil the extraordinary in the ordinary. His photographs were also rather reminiscent of my very recent passage in Rio.

The picturesque lakes offer a peaceful respite from the bustling galleries

For those seeking tranquility, make sure to visit one of the many serene lakes. The picturesque lakes offer a peaceful respite from the bustling galleries. Soak in the beauty of the surroundings and perhaps even enjoy a picnic by the water's edge. It's the perfect spot to recharge your batteries.

Probably the most remarkable stop for me here is the Galeria Claudia Andujar. This gallery pays tribute to the incredible work of the renowned Brazilian photographer and activist. Claudia Andujar's powerful images document the lives and struggles of the indigenous Yanomami people, shedding light on their rich culture and the threats they face. It's a moving reminder of the power of art to raise awareness and inspire change. Coincidentally, that morning before leaving for Inhotim, I caught morning news about the Yanomami people, which was the first time I learned about this group and their struggles.

Onto an otherworldly experience at the Galeria Doug Aitken. The edifice atop a hill reminded me of the Brazilian dystopian thriller series on Netflix entitled 3%. This multimedia installation takes us on a journey of sound, light, and moving images, enveloping us in an immersive sensory experience. As we wander through this audiovisual wonderland, we become active participants in the artwork, engaging with our surroundings and embracing the dynamic nature of contemporary art.

The indigenous Yanomami people through the lens of Claudia Andujar

Our final stop on the Pink Route brought us to the Galeria Matthew Barney, where an installation awaits that showcases the unwavering fascination of its creator with mythological narratives. This captivating piece finds its inspiration in the rich tapestry of Afro-Brazilian syncretism, providing fertile ground for an exploration of the intricate dance between opposing forces. Inside, your eyes will be drawn to a scene that evokes curiosity and contemplation. Resting within is a tractor, an unexpected companion for the vibrant tree it supports. It is said that this is a testament to Barney's concern for the environment and an invitation to interpret it through an ecological lens.

Dining in Inhotim

It took us the entire morning to go through only half of the pink route and yet, this open-air museum still has so much more to offer. We had snacks on our backpack but I wanted to have a proper meal. Luckily, Inhotim offers several dining options to satisfy your hunger pangs. From cozy cafés to elegant restaurants, you'll find something to suit your taste. We had the typical Brazilian “self-service” buffet, indulging in a delicious Brazilian meal of salad, rice, beans and your choice of meat.

A quick glimpse of the Yellow Route

With our stomachs satiated, it's time to continue our artistic journey along the Yellow Route.

Matthew Barney - Geodetic domes in steel and glass, forestry tractor, polyethylene sculpture, variable dimensions.

Leaving the mesmerizing Pink Route behind, we venture forth to discover the wonders that await us on the Yellow Route. One of our random stops along this path is the Galeria Rivane Neuenschwander. This Brazilian artist's works are characterized by their delicate and intricate nature, often exploring themes of memory, language, and the passage of time. The artist employs a unique approach, reimagining industrial objects within new contexts.

The skies were visibly starting to threaten us with rain. After we stopped for an açai treat at one of the snack bars along the yellow route, and with less than an hour before closing, we decided to call it a day. I stopped briefly at the museum gift shop to get souvenirs from this exceptional museum.

We've travelled through a realm where art and imagination intertwine, where creativity knows no bounds. Inhotim continues to amaze and inspire, inviting us to venture further and explore the many other paths it offers. I could only hope I had more days to head back to explore more of the Yellow and extensive Orange Routes.

Drive back to Belo Horizonte

Our incredible journey through the artistic wonders of Inhotim has come to an end. As we bid farewell to this captivating open-air museum, we embark on a picturesque drive back to Belo Horizonte. We were in for a treat—a mesmerizing sunset awaits us, painting the sky with a palette of vibrant hues.

We've travelled through a realm where art and imagination intertwine

As we hit the road, the golden hour casts its magical glow upon the surrounding landscape. The rolling hills of Minas Gerais are bathed in warm, ethereal light, creating a serene and idyllic atmosphere. It's moments like these that remind us of the sheer beauty of our world.

The best is yet to come. Whilst venturing further on our journey, a sight straight out of a fairytale greets us. Can you believe it? A full rainbow stretches majestically across the horizon, its vivid colors contrasting against the darkening sky. It's as if nature herself is bidding us farewell, offering one last awe-inspiring spectacle.

Beneath this magnificent arc of colors, I took a silent moment to soak it all in. The sheer magnitude and brilliance of the rainbow evoke a sense of wonder and joy, reminding me of the incredible wonders that can be found when we least expect them. It's nature's way of saying, "Thank you for experiencing the artistry of Inhotim and embracing the beauty that surrounds you."

And the timing couldn't be more perfect. The sun gracefully descends towards the horizon - the beautiful horizon as the capital is aptly named, translated in English, casting its golden rays upon the landscape, the rainbow colours become even more vibrant. It's a sight that fills our hearts with gratitude and leaves us in awe of the world's natural wonders.

Don't forget to bring sunscreen, a hat, and insect repellent, as you'll be spending a lot of time outdoors

Driving back to Belo Horizonte, the fading light paints the sky with hues of orange, pink, and purple. The surrounding countryside transforms into a picturesque canvas as if the universe itself is bidding us farewell in the most breathtaking way.

The sun sets on this remarkable day, with the rainbow's arch gracefully fading into the distance, and with me are memories of Inhotim and the beauty that unfolded before my eyes. It's moments like these that remind me of the power of travel, the magic of art, and the incredible wonders that await us when we embrace the journey.

Final tips

A few tips to ensure a smooth visit. Inhotim is a popular destination, so try to visit on weekdays or during the off-peak seasons to avoid crowds. We visited on holiday - May 1 Labor Day. While there were masses of visitors, the open-air museum is wide enough and visitors are well dispersed around the area that it was not really very crowded.

Don't forget to bring sunscreen, a hat, and insect repellent, as you'll be spending a lot of time outdoors. Finally, remember to respect the artwork and follow any instructions or restrictions indicated by the museum.

This unique open-air museum is a true gem, where nature and art harmoniously coexist. So, whether you're an art enthusiast, a nature lover, or simply seeking inspiration, Inhotim will leave an indelible mark on your soul.

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