When in Paris: The Art Squat of Paris

So, you’ve been to the Louvre, Orsay, and Rodin museums and are on the look for a different set of art. Consider going to 59 Rue Rivoli, also known as The Art Squat of Paris. This conspicuously Hausmanian building along the street of Rivoli houses galleries and studios of counterculture art. Its façade is constantly changing. It is a form of art in itself even before you enter the six floors of contemporary art. It is home to numerous artists, who advocate creative freedom from all over the world.

59 Rue Rivoli is right in the heart of the Parisian city center in the 1st district. It is located along France’s most iconic street, Rivoli Street, a short distance from the Louvre, and the Paris City Hall. It is easily accessible via the Rivoli Sector exit from the Chatelet stop, open daily from 1 pm to 8 pm, except on Mondays. Entrance is free.

In 1999, three artists forced entry to access the abandoned building. They made it their home and office. Just three months later, the artists began to receive eviction notices. Working quietly and proving not to be a nuisance to their neighbors, they managed to continue “squatting” until March 2001. However, with no formal papers to protect them and with the deteriorating status of the building looming over their heads, they need to turn to someone to maintain the structure's survival. Through the then Mayoral candidate Bertrand Delanoë, who bought the building after he won the elections in 2005 as mayor of Paris, he formally granted the space as a studio and performance location. After renovations in 2006, it has now been open to 20 permanent artists and 10 temporary residents since 2009. The art students stay for between three to six months at a time.

Instead of getting rid of the “squatters”, the city and its citizens embraced the quirkiness of this building and its residents as part of its city landscape and cultural attractions. 59 Rue Rivoli attracts visitors from residents of the city of Paris, other French cities and international tourists.

Each floor features different styles and themes, unlike conventional museums which are usually grouped and organized according to certain art categories and periods. When we came to visit, some artists were either currently working on their pieces, hanging out on their exhibit corners or chatting with other fellow artists. It felt a little bit intimidating walking through the walls of the museum with them there. It felt like invading their space of refuge. Some artists deliberately place signs that say, “you can disturb me while working. I don’t mind.” While I did not bother, the most I could give them was a nod, a smile, and some attention and time admiring their work of art. I suppose if I tried to engage with them in a conversation, they would gladly oblige.

Some artworks are for sale. Other artists accept commissioned work. They leave their business cards and contact details on a table or as a subtle part of their exhibit so they can all be easily reached.

I spotted a resident from Minas Gerais, Eduardo Fonseca, whose work caught my attention. When I shared and tagged his work (one of the staircases’ mural paintings) on Instagram he sent me a message and we chatted for a while. Proof that we can easily get in touch with the artists featured in this corner of counterculture / contemporary art in Paris.

B and I spent roughly 1 hour to 1h30 admiring the vast collection and display of art. There were two or three other artworks or styles that I appreciated most. If I didn’t feel hungry and if fewer people were visiting, I would’ve taken longer to appreciate the pieces being exhibited, and maybe even speak to one of the artists who were there!

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