In the Heart of Belo Horizonte
After a long and tiring cross-Atlantic flight from Paris to Belo Horizonte and a day trip to Ouro Preto, I was ready to start my adventure. I was eager to get out and explore my surroundings, but I also knew that I needed to take it slow and give myself time to acclimate. I’m grateful for the presence of V who accompanied me to help make the transition easier.
We started day 3 by renting a car from Localiza, which was just a few minutes away from my hotel - Promenade Pacetti in Savassi. I was a bit apprehensive about driving in Brazil, but V was confident, and I trusted him. We then headed back to my hotel for lunch, where we enjoyed the leftovers from the Italian restaurant where we had dinner the night before. To our surprise, there was no microwave in my hotel which was a one-bedroom apartment with a kitchenette, but the hotel staff kindly brought us one so that we could heat up our food.
In the afternoon, I found myself in the bustling city of Belo Horizonte. Known to the locals as BH (pronounced /be-a-ga/), Belo is a city located in southeastern Brazil, in the state of Minas Gerais, known for its hilly topography and rich cultural heritage, with influences from Portuguese colonialism, African culture, and indigenous traditions. Economically, it is an important industrial and commercial center, with a diverse economy including manufacturing, trade, and services, as well as a growing technology sector.
It was my first time in Brazil, and I was filled with excitement and anticipation for what lay ahead. We decided to take a long walk around Belo Horizonte, first heading towards Mercado Central. We wandered the streets, taking in the sights and sounds of this vibrant city. People of all ages bustled about, some on their way home from work, others on their way to meet friends for a night out. Everywhere I looked, there was a sense of energy and life that was contagious.
Walking towards Mercado Central in Belo Horizonte was an adventure in itself, with its steep and winding roads leading us closer to the bustling heart of the city. Arriving at the market, we were greeted by the sights and sounds of vendors selling an array of goods, from fresh produce and meats to local handicrafts and souvenirs. The market was clean and organized, making it easy to navigate and find what we were looking for. I was in awe of the vibrant energy and the friendly faces of the vendors and shoppers alike. We picked up some Korean noodles and snacks, and I made a mental note to return and purchase some local coffee and treats on my next visit. It was here that I also decided to purchase my first and lone pair of Havaianas slippers! The experience of visiting Mercado Central was a sensory overload that I wouldn't forget any time soon, especially after a cool, refreshing taste of the famous Limonada.
Once back outside and just before crossing the street to head to Praça de Liberdade, my head started to spin. I was likely experiencing a combination of jet lag, lack of sleep, and exhaustion. After all, it was already way past my bedtime in French time, which was five hours ahead, and my body was still trying to adjust to the time change and the season. I was grateful for V's quick thinking, as he caught me and assisted me for the rest of the walk.
We stopped by a small grocery store to buy a bottle of water (I wasn't sure if the tap water was potable in Brazil) and a few toiletries. Then, we sat on a bench in Praça de Liberdade, people-watching. I was in awe of the park, which was just once my computer wallpaper and now, I was there in person! I watched as children played and families sat together, chatting and enjoying the cooler late afternoon air. It was a peaceful moment - one that I wanted to hold onto and savor. But even as I sat there, I could feel the city's energy pulsing around me. Street vendors called out, offering their wares, and the sound of music and laughter filled the air. It was a mix of the traditional and the modern, a city that was proud of its roots but always looking towards the future (which I briefly wrote about here).
Suddenly, a young father approached us and told us his story of how he and his family had fallen on hard times and were now begging for money on the street. He pointed to his young wife and infant as he asked for help. Although I couldn't understand much of what he was saying due to the language barrier, I could see the genuine sympathy in V's eyes as he listened to the man's story. After a few moments, the man seemed to understand and left, and V and I continued to sit in the park, taking in the sights and sounds of the city. He also told me stories of his childhood which gave me an insight into how it was to live and grow up in this city. The light that the setting sun paired with stories of V’s childhood was reminiscent of the late afternoons of my childhood. Much as I felt I was there to witness his experiences as a kid, I was also transported back into mine in the Philippines.
As the sky turned from golden yellow, with a hint of orange to deep blue, I thought about all the adventures I was about to have in this beautiful city which starts the next day. First, to Congonhas, Tiradentes and São João del Rei. Then a brief stop back at Belo. After which, proceeding to Serra de Cipó, Diamantina and Milho Verde (and eventually a side trip to Serro). There were so many places to see and so many experiences to be had. And I was overwhelmingly thankful to be here, at this moment, in this place, with the sound of the city ringing in my ears and the excitement of the future beating in my heart.
The walk back to the hotel was gruelling, as we had to navigate the steep hills of Belo Horizonte. But I was grateful for the exercise and the chance to see more of the city. Back at the hotel, I took a nap, had Korean noodles for dinner, and had a quiet evening. I needed to rest and recharge my batteries for the adventurous week ahead. And with that, I closed my eyes, ready to tackle the next chapter of my Brazilian adventure.
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Belo Horizonte, once more, left an enduring imprint on my being, and as my second visit draws to an end, I am comforted with a fulfilling sense of purpose, carrying the city's cultural marvels as cherished treasures to be shared for years ahead