Day Trip to Ouro Preto and the Search for Zédocano

Praça Tiradentes and Museu da Inconfidência

Ouro Preto - a day trip unlike any other, one that would forever be etched in my memory.

My Brazilian friend, V and I, embarked on a road trip from Belo Horizonte to the colonial town of Ouro Preto, located in the heart of Minas Gerais. It was a time filled with moments of cultural immersion, frustration, and unexpected twists, but it remains one of the most unforgettable experiences I have had in Brazil.

The town of Ouro Preto, located in Minas Gerais, Brazil, was a center of the colonial Brazilian gold rush in the 18th century and played a crucial role in the country's economic development. In those days, it was known as Vila Rica (rich city) and served as the capital of the region. Today, Ouro Preto is widely regarded as a UNESCO World Heritage site, attracting countless tourists with its well-preserved colonial architecture and rich cultural heritage.

Our journey was filled with challenges and unexpected twists and turns. Our quest for an ATM machine that would accept my French bank card proved to be a difficult one. After searching high and low, we found several banks with signs reading “caixa 24 horas” or "Saque" (in Portuguese, to withdraw money is sacar seu dinheiro), but none of them was compatible with my card.

Our journey started as we arrived in Ouro Preto before noon, and parked our car near Praça Tiradentes. We decided to explore the city on foot. Along the way, a tourist guide approached us offering his services, but we politely declined, preferring to explore the city on our own.

Our first stop was the Museu da Inconfidência, which we entered for free and explored for about an hour. The museum showcases the history of the Inconfidência Mineira, a failed conspiracy against Portuguese rule in Brazil in the late 18th century.

Next, we visited the Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo, but we were unable to enter as we needed cash to pay the entrance fee. This marked the beginning of our search for the elusive ATM machine. Failing to secure cash, and after a few snaps and chitchat in the premises of the church overlooking the beautiful charming town, we strolled downhill and decided to visit the Casa dos Contos Museum, which showcases the wealth and lifestyle of the wealthy gold merchants during the colonial period in Brazil. It also features the ornate interiors and furnishings of a colonial-era house, including displays of antique book collections from the Portuguese colonial period. The ever-changing currencies (from cruzeiro to cruzeiro novo to the current real or reais in plural) of Brazil are displayed here too.

As we walked back uphill, we stumbled upon a street library and decided to take a look. It was a nice surprise, and we were happy to have discovered it. It was with this street vendor that I secured my Brazilian copy of the Little Prince (O pequeno principe). More on that here. The same street vendor suggested a restaurant uphill. In Google Maps, it pointed us to a burger place, which has been transformed into a traditional Brazilian-buffet-style lunch set up.

For lunch, we visited a self-service Brazilian buffet and enjoyed a delicious meal. However, much as our stomachs were full, our wallets were still empty, and we still needed cash to get inside the Igreja do São Francisco de Assis. Desperate to withdraw money, we encountered a guide in Praça Tiradentes who directed us to a nearby jeweller called Zé do cano, who exchanged euros for reais.

Scouting for Zé do cano was a highlight of our trip. V later explained to me that the name Zé do cano might not have been a good sign, as the combination of these three words Zé, do and cano could mean someone who agrees to something but does not fulfill their part of the deal:

Zé is what you may call a person whose name you might not know. It might also be a diminutive version of the name José, but he was only inferring this might be the case.

do cano (from the verb dar to give + o cano) means to agree on something and not fulfil your part of the deal. For instance, if one owes you money and they tell you that they’re going to pay yet they disappear. This action is known as “dar o cano”)
The tourist guide who indicated this person to us explained that this name was due to the fact that the said person was a plumber (o cano, a pipe) and not because he used to dar o cano.

Despite the questionable reputation of "Zé do cano," we took the risk and went to the jeweller, where V looked for a Senhor Zédocano. To our surprise, a tiny, cheerful man emerged from the staff room and exchanged my 50 EUR for approximately 200 RS.

With cash in hand (and a good story to remember it by), we finally visited the Igreja do São Francisco de Assis, a notable example of Brazilian baroque architecture and a symbol of the wealth of the region during the 18th century. The church was a marvel to behold, with its richly decorated interiors and magnificent artwork.

On our way back to the car, another guide suggested we visit Igreja Matriz de Santa Efigênia. We had to stop for a bathroom break in a nearby restaurant, where a mime performer entertained and imitated us for a few minutes.

We finally reached the Igreja Matriz de Santa Efigênia, and the streets were 90° steep, it was incredible how cars could pass through, let alone park without sliding down. This church is one of the finest examples of baroque architecture in Brazil, renowned for its intricate and ornate details, including its carved wooden altars and gilded ceilings. Another one of the ambulant residents who chatted with us on our way out mentioned that it was a church destined for former slaves. The saints we saw there were black. Slaves played a significant role in the development of Brazil, being forcibly brought from Africa as a cheap source of labor to work in agriculture and mines, shaping the country's economy and society for over three centuries until the abolition of slavery in 1888.

As we made our way back to our car, the sun was setting, casting a warm glow over the historic city. We drove back to Belo Horizonte by dusk, tired but grateful for the experiences we had that day.

The road trip to Ouro Preto was a journey filled with unexpected surprises and unforgettable moments. Despite the challenges we faced, we emerged with an appreciation for the culture and history of Brazil and shared memories that will last a lifetime.