Rio de Janeiro: A true city of contrasts (Part 1 of 2)

The moment I stepped off the plane and into the Rio de Janeiro airport, I could already feel the excitement pulsing through me. It had only been less than a year since I last visited Brazil, but I couldn't believe I was back so soon. This time, however, it was going to be slightly different.

I decided to spend 10 days in Rio de Janeiro, also known as the Cidade Maravilhosa, and 5 days back in Belo Horizonte - around 400 km away. This was a last-minute decision and barely anyone knew I was flying out because I wanted this experience to be highly personal. It’s an experience I wanted to keep for myself. However, I also don’t want to forget. So to relive those memories, here’s as general and brief as I can be to keep the memory alive: the places I saw, the people I encountered, the thoughts that passed through my head, the food I enjoyed, and many more.

Arrival, Lodging and Airports in Rio de Janeiro

Rio de Janeiro has two airports: Galeão International Airport and Santos Dumont Airport.

Galeão International Airport is the larger and more modern of the two airports. It serves domestic and international flights and is located in the northern part of the city, about 20 kilometers from the downtown area. The airport has two terminals, Terminal 1 and Terminal 2, and it offers a variety of services and facilities, such as restaurants, shops, car rental companies, currency exchange, and ATMs.

Santos Dumont Airport, on the other hand, is a smaller airport located in the downtown area of Rio de Janeiro, just a few minutes away from many of the city's major tourist attractions. It primarily serves domestic flights and smaller aircraft, and it has one terminal building. Despite its smaller size, Santos Dumont Airport is known for its stunning location, as it is situated on the edge of Guanabara Bay and provides a beautiful view of the city.

My direct 12-hour flight from Paris Charles-de-Gaulle via AirFrance landed at the Galeao International Airport. I was met by Ismael, a friendly driver I had contracted beforehand to take me to my condo unit in Botafogo for a 100 R$. It would have cost me 60 R$ less to book an Uber or negotiate with a taxi on-site but as I was arriving late at night (and the flight eventually was delayed), I couldn’t take any risk and decided to splurge more on certainty.

The condo unit I booked via Booking.com at bairro (district) Botafogo was perfect for me, as it was central to the three beaches I wanted to visit: Leblon, Ipanema, and Copacabana. I could also easily access the center of Rio, and Urca beach - which gives access to the iconic Sugarloaf Mountain

Day 1 - Downtown rio

Rio de Janeiro is named after its natural harbor, which Portuguese explorers first encountered in January 1502. The Portuguese initially named the area "Rio de Janeiro," which translates to "River of January," because they believed the bay was the mouth of a river. The name Rio de Janeiro has remained even though it's now known that the bay is not a river but a deep, natural harbor formed by the sea.

This kind of information was what I came in first contact with on the first official full day, Saturday, where I joined a free walking tour led by our guide Natalia, a native Carioca. There are tours in English, Portuguese and Spanish. Naturally, I chose English because I was too jetlagged to carry on a challenge on a 3-hour tour in Portuguese. These tours are, of course, not absolutely free but I love how you get to decide on how much the tour is worth after you’ve already had it. I would’ve paid 100R$ (~20 EUR) for the quality of her tour but we were a big group, and everyone was pitching in so I decided to give just 50R$ (~10 EUR).

Carioca is a term used to refer to the natives of the city of Rio de Janeiro (RJ), whereas the natives of the state of RJ are called Fluminense (a name more widely known for the local football club). It can also be used to describe the local culture, cuisine, music, and lifestyle of Rio de Janeiro. The term is said to have originated from the Tupi language, which was spoken by the indigenous people in Brazil before the arrival of the Portuguese. The word "kara'i oka" in Tupi means "house of the white man," which was used to describe the Portuguese settlers in the region. Over time, the term evolved to refer to the people of Rio de Janeiro.

As she walked us around downtown Rio while telling historical facts and trivia about the city from how it was “founded” by the Portuguese in 1565 until its most recent developments (and unfortunately, deterioration), I was amazed by the stunning architecture and rich history of this old capital of Brazil. In 1960, then President Juscelino Kubitschek migrated the capital from the seaside to inland Brasilia.

For three full hours, I took in the sights and sounds of the bustling city, from the colorful buildings to the lively (and insistent, sometimes intrusive but never violent) street vendors selling a variety of goods from fresh fruit and snacks to… gold?

Day 2 - Promenade along leblon and ipanema

Calçadão along Leblon, Ipanema and Copacabana are closed to vehicles on Sundays

On Sunday, I decided to take it easy and walk along the famous beaches and upper-class districts of Leblon and Ipanema. I sipped on cold and refreshing coconut juice while enjoying the Calçadão, a pedestrian walkway that runs parallel to the beaches that is closed to vehicles on Sundays. It was a beautiful day, and the views of the ocean and the mountains in the distance were breathtaking. The warm sun and cool ocean breeze made for the perfect day.

Pizza doce with Nutella, strawberries and bananas

As the sun sets stunningly over the horizon as I walk along the edges of Ipanema beach, I headed towards the inner city, away from the coast. A lot of the beachgoers from that afternoon were walking comfortably in their slippers, totes and beach towels as they dry themselves back to their homes or hotels. It was vastly different from how urban life was back in Paris. It felt strangely familiar though because it was evocative of Philippine beach life. My two worlds were in conflict inside my head as I take notice of the movement of the world around me. As for me, I was heading for the nearest metro that would take me back to my condo at Botafogo when I encountered a Pizzeria that offers Pizza Doce.

Pizza Doce might sound sacrilegious, especially to Italians. It is a type of sweet pizza that is popular in Brazil. It is typically made with a regular pizza crust and topped with sweet ingredients such as chocolate, fruit, and sugar. Some popular toppings for pizza doce include bananas, strawberries, Nutella - which is exactly what I had. It is often served as a dessert or as a sweet snack, and it can be found in many bakeries and pizzerias in Brazil, most especially in São Paulo but I was lucky to find one here in Rio.

Parasol and chair rental at Copacabana beach

Day 3 - Copacabana beach day

Monday was dedicated to one of Rio's most famous attractions: Copacabana Beach. I was pleased to find that there were fewer crowds on a weekday than on the weekend, which made it easier to find a good spot on the sand. The waves were huge and strong, so I dipped my body in the water quickly before spending the rest of the time relaxing on the beach, writing postcards to send back home, and trying the delicious 10R$-Guyabano-flavored picolé (ice pop) I bought from an ambulant vendor who happened to be Mineiro (Brazilians who hail from the bordering state of Minas Gerais).

Day 4 - Confeitaria Colombo & Jardim Botânico

This was what I came for. More than the beaches, Cristo Redentor or the Sugarloaf Mountain, the Jardim Botânico do Rio de Janeiro (Botanical Garden) was my main destination.

But first, in the morning, I met up with my Mineiro friend V, who was in town for an official appointment. We started the day off right by serendipitously having breakfast at the famous Confeitaria Colombo, a beautiful bakery and cafe in the heart of Rio. It was also briefly part of the walking tour from Day 1 .

Drinks and pastries at Confeitaria Colombo

Lines could get really long to get a spot in this bakery. But V and I happened to pass through five minutes before opening at 11 am on a Tuesday morning and we were among the first to get in line. V ordered a salgado (salty treat), a coxinha, and paired it with a suco de laranja (orange juice). I, on the other hand, got the pastel de Belem (or pastel de nata, as they call it in Portugal) and an affogato. The pastries were as delicious as I remembered. While dining in this historical building, V told me how his appointment in the morning went, reminiscent of how I used (and still do) to go through endless paperwork and appointments for visa applications.

In the afternoon, we headed to Jardim Botanico, one of the most beautiful botanical gardens I've ever seen. The lush greenery, the colorful flowers, and the peaceful atmosphere made it the perfect place to spend a relaxing afternoon.

Jardim Botânico do Rio de Janeiro is one of the most magical and enchanting places you can ever lay your eyes on. As soon as you enter the garden's gates (entrance for foreigners is R$ 60,00, V gets to pay half because he’s a student and Brazilian), you're immediately transported to a different world, one where nature takes center stage, and you're just a mere spectator to its beauty.

The garden is an oasis in the heart of Rio, and it's hard to believe that this serene and tranquil place is just a few miles away from a busy city. As you walk along the winding paths, you'll be surrounded by lush greenery, towering trees, and exotic plants from all corners of the world.

One of the highlights of the Jardim Botânico is the Sumauma, also known as Ceiba pentandra. It is a towering tree species, native to the Amazon, that is truly breathtaking to behold. With its majestic height, thick trunk, and sprawling canopy, it is a true wonder of nature and a sight to behold.

Walking through the gardens, you cannot help but be drawn to the towering presence of the Sumauma. Standing tall and proud, this magnificent tree reaches heights of up to 60 meteres, making it one of the tallest trees in the Brazilian rainforest.

The Sumauma's trunk is equally impressive, with a diameter that can reach up to 3 meters. Its smooth bark is a light grey color, and its branches extend outward in all directions, forming a massive canopy that provides shade for a variety of wildlife and vegetation.

As you approach the tree, you will be struck by its sheer size and the sense of awe that it inspires. It is not just its size, however, that makes the Sumauma so special. The tree is also an important part of Brazilian culture and has been used for centuries for its medicinal properties and as a source of building materials.

Despite its importance to the local culture, the Sumauma is still a rare and precious sight and one that should not be missed. Standing in the presence of this magnificent tree, you cannot help but feel a deep sense of reverence for the beauty and power of the natural world.

One of the most magical things about the Jardim Botânico is that it's not just a garden, but it's also a place of history and culture. The garden was established in 1808 by the Portuguese royal family, and it's been a center for botanical research and conservation ever since. It’s been said that Dom João himself planted the first palm tree, the Palmeira-Imperial in the area in 1809 for its inauguration. However, it has been struck by lightning and so the palm tree that stands behind the statue of his bust, called Palmeira Filla, is a remnant of the Palmeira-Imperial.

Corcovado Mountain view of Cristo Redentor from Jardim Botânico

Without a doubt, this has been, hands down, the highlight of my stay in Rio and there are five more days left in the itinerary. Jardim Botânico do Rio de Janeiro is a truly magical place, one that will leave you spellbound and in awe of the wonders of nature (or is it maybe because I’m an earth sign, a sucker for forests and gardens). It's a must-visit destination for anyone travelling to Rio de Janeiro, more than the touristic sites everyone would visit when they come to this city and a place that you'll remember for the rest of your life.

As it happens, for the remaining five days, I had big plans to visit some of Rio's most iconic attractions. Despite my usual preference for more "local" experiences, I knew I couldn't miss out on the chance to see Cristo Redentor, Sugarloaf Mountain, and Parque Lague. I was determined to make the most of every moment in this beautiful city, because who knows when I'll have the chance to come back? More on that in part two!