At Peace at Tiradentes — Leni on the Road

Tiradentes is a charming town located in the state of Minas Gerais, Brazil. The town was founded in 1702 and is named after Joaquim José da Silva Xavier, better known as Tiradentes, a national hero who fought for Brazilian independence in the late 18th century. Today, Tiradentes is known for its well-preserved colonial architecture, cobblestone streets, and laid-back vibe. Tiradentes Day is also celebrated every April 21 to commemorate the execution of da Silva Xavier in 1792.

After a long drive from Congonhas, we finally arrived in Tiradentes. We checked in at the Hotel Ponta do Morro, a charming hotel located in the heart of the historic city center. The hotel's location was perfect for exploring the town's narrow streets, historic buildings, and charming cafes.

Since we had an early morning, a side trip, and a long drive, we were quite tired when we arrived. So, we spent the rest of the afternoon settling in and getting some work done, planning our itinerary for the next three days. We had hoped to take a day trip to Sao Joao del Rei via the train, which is a popular attraction for tourists. However, due to Covid restrictions, the scheduling had changed, and we wouldn't be able to take the train in any of the three days we were there. The only choice was to drive there.

V also suggested going on a mini hike along the Estrada Real just outside of Tiradentes. Despite my reservations about hiking, he somehow convinced me to give it a try.

That night, we headed out for a walk around the town, looking for a place to have dinner. As we strolled through the dreamy streets of Tiradentes, we stumbled upon an understated and unpretentious independent burger chain. I was tempted, and it did not disappoint. Their vegan burger was the best I have ever had, even better than the one I had in Valladolid, Spain, eight years ago.

With our stomachs full, we returned to our hotel, ready for the day visit around Tiradentes, a day trip to Sao Joao del Rei, and our mini hike the next day.

Our first day in Tiradentes was, for lack of a better term, unglamorous with the only itinerary being settling in and planning for our trip. Oddly, it has been the most remarkable day yet. There’s something soothing and calming with its subdued ambiance. Pair that with a meaningful chat and a good companion, I don’t think I need the trip to be more adventurous than that for it to be deemed memorable.

As we fast-forward to the third day (skipping the second day for another post), we finally got the chance to explore the town during the day. We started our morning by visiting historical sites, including the Chafariz de São José fountain. It was fascinating to learn about the town's history, and seeing the beautiful architecture was truly a sight to behold.

V’s mother recommended a restaurant that serves the famous bacalhau for lunch, but unfortunately, we couldn't find it. Instead, I decided to try my very first açai in one of the souvenir shops in the center. It was a refreshing treat that helped me energize for the rest of the day. And from that very first day I tried açai, I would go on my entire trip eating açais.

View from Matriz de Santo Antônio Church veranda

As we were making our way back to the hotel, we noticed the Matriz de Santo Antônio Church uphill. I expressed my desire to see the church, but my feet weren't in their best state, so I asked V if we could drive up there before leaving. As if by chance, the church was about to close for a wedding, but we managed to sneak in and marvel at the inside of the church for ten minutes before they closed the doors.

After leaving the church, we went to the cemetery and the garden that surrounds it. The peaceful surroundings and beautiful scenery were a perfect way to end our trip to Tiradentes. Sadly, it was time to leave the premises, as they needed to prepare the area for the wedding event.

Tiradentes, no matter how low-key this visit seem to be was undoubtedly the best experience during those two weeks in Minas Gerais. From learning about the town's history and culture to trying new foods and exploring stunning architecture, I felt the most at peace here.